April 15, 2015

Analysis, part 1 - Yoke

The DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit was a truly unique garment, as were most of the garments from that particular Starfleet era. It possessed numerous characteristics that both set it apart from its predecessors and made it a memorable garment in its own right. 


First, and most notably, is the quilted yoke. 

Unlike the VOY jumpsuit, the yoke was not division-colored and "plain" but gray and quilted:



The yoke was quilted vertically in precise increments of ¾" - the front yoke, back yoke, and the shoulder points. 

(In other words, the quilt lines are all ¾" apart and parallel.) 


The real construction detail of this uniform, though, is in the relationship between the quilting/topstitching and the rest of the upper garment, and its precise alignments in that regard made it a masterpiece of coordinated detail. 

Everything is determined with the quilt lines in mind, as well as constructed and/or adjusted in increments of quilt lines or half quilt-lines (¾" or ⅜", respectively). 


First, and perhaps most obviously, the quilt lines on the front and back yokes met their counterparts at the shoulder seam and aligned perfectly:



The edge of the neck opening fell exactly on a quilt line or mid-quilt line at the shoulder seam (with the ⅜" neckline trim meeting the shoulder seam on the next quilt line or mid-quilt line, but more on that shortly):

Mid-quilt line
Nemesis
Quilt line
Nemesis


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