April 15, 2015

Analysis, part 9 - Sleeve Cuff

Another unique characteristic of the DS9/NEM jumpsuit was its sleeve cuffs, which were comprised of two raised ⅜" bands and a ½" division stripe between them:

Nemesis
Nemesis
DS9, 5x24 "Empok Nor"

DS9, 6x26
"Tears of the Prophets"
DS9, 7x1 "Image in the Sand"

DS9, 7x4 "Take Me Out to the Holosuite"

The division stripe was made of the same cotton lycra as the division shirt, ensuring a perfect match between the two on the wearer.

DS9, 5x15 "By Inferno's Light"

The division stripe appears to have been cut parallel to the selvage - i.e. with the long lines. 

Furthermore, the sleeve cuff assembly appears to have either been cut on the bias, or at the appropriate angle for the diagonal weave to be opposite what it is on the body - i.e. if the body weave goes lower left to upper right, the sleeve cuff weave goes lower right to upper left: 





(We'll take a look at that Velcro later - see our "Exceptions and Oddities, part 5" for more on this.) 

Sometimes, though, it looks like only the sleeve cuff bands were cut on the bias/angle, and/or the division stripe was cut perpendicular to the selvage (assuming the O'Brien example below wasn't an exception, mistake, one-off, etc., that is!): 

Screen-used O'Brien DS9/NEM duty jumpsuit auction photo

It appears that the sleeve hem allowance was turned upward and the sleeve cuff assembly was simply topstitched in place via a "stitch in the ditch" on the inside edges of the band.

DS9, 6x9 "Statistical Probabilities"

(Another possibility is that a facing was sewn to the lower band of the sleeve cuff, which was presumably secured by a "stitch in the ditch" or two along one or both of the band edges.)


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NEXT: Analysis, part 10 - Pant Legs

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