April 15, 2015

Analysis, part 3 - Trim

A major feature of the DS9/NEM jumpsuit yoke was ⅜" wool gabardine trim (same as the jumpsuit body and pants, dyed to match the gray wool elastique/cavalry twill of the yoke, and cut on the bias - essentially custom-made bias tape) that decorated the neckline/front opening, yoke bottom, and shoulder points.

Although the trim "matched" the yoke, being a different fabric and cut on the bias, it apparently reacted quite differently under different lightings and shone quite differently when shot by different cameras - much more than one might expect. 

It was most clearly observable on Data's uniform in First Contact:

First Contact

Sometimes, for instance, the trim possessed a notable sheen, almost like sateen or silk might - making it easily distinguishable from the yoke itself. 

This was most commonly seen in promotional photos for the shows and movies:




Other times, there was but a subtle difference in the color/lighting of the yoke and trim; the latter just barely stood out as different:



There were times yet still (most often during Deep Space Nine) that the trim and yoke fabrics were almost indistinguishable:

DS9, 7x16 "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges"
DS9, 7x23 "Extreme Measures"

The DS9/NEM yoke trim possessed three miters on each side (well, two and one "faux-miter").


Two were along the neckline/front opening. 

The first was at the top corner of the front opening (see right). 

The other was at the bottom of the front opening, where the yoke met the body (also see right). 











What's important to note about the latter (the lower of the two, at the bottom of the front opening) is: 


(At least, it was in the sense that it was two separate strips of bias-cut fabric that were sewn together, not one strip mitered with the traditional quilting method.) 

The trim at the bottom of the yoke and around the neckline was supposed to appear to be one continuous piece, mitered at the corners, but, in fact, it was three separate pieces: left yoke bottom, neckline, and right yoke bottom. The "faux miters" at the bottom of the front opening established the illusion of it being a continuous strip of bias trim. 

Unlike the VOY jumpsuit, the inside front of the DS9/NEM jumpsuit was never (intentionally) seen, nor did it seem to be "safeguarded" in its construction against any peeks inside; even pictures of the inside front of screen-used DS9/NEM jumpsuits are extremely difficult to find. 

DS9, 7x19 "Strange Bedfellows"
However, we did catch a brief glimpse of the inside of Chief O'Brien's, just once! 

Note that on the underside of the yoke, the trim is NOT mitered, but, rather, simply folded out of sight. 















The miter at the corner of the neckline/front opening, though, was "genuine." 

DS9, 7x23 "Extreme Measures"



The third miter was at the bottom corner of the shoulder point, at the "center" quilt line: 


DS9, 7x5 "Chrysalis"
DS9, 7x8 "The Siege of AR-558"
DS9, 7x11 "Prodigal Daughter"
DS9, 7x13 "Field of Fire"
DS9, 7x24 "The Dogs of War"



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